This is a translation from the French edition of La France à tire-d'aile (2005) by Philippe J. Dubois & Elise Rousseau, published by Delachaux & Niestlé, reproduced here with the kind authorization of the publisher and the authors.
Natural surroundings of the watchpoint
Col du Soulor is located in the département of Hautes-Pyrénées, at the head of the wide valley of Argèles, close to the eastern boundary of Pyrénées-Atlantiques. At 1474 metres, the watchpoint provides visitors with a 360-degree panoramic view. The landscape is characterized by mountain meadows with scattered juniper and blueberry undergrowth at the upper forest limit. The mountain pass is dominated by peaks reaching over 2500 m (Gabizos), within a high mountain ecosystem. The south flank (1400 m) includes an area of recent conifer plantation.
History of the survey
The autumn migration survey started at the end of the 1980s, focusing on raptors and storks. Migratory birds have two options to cross the col. The former is a southwesterly migration route into the upper Ossau valley (upstream from Eaux-Chaudes) across col des Moines into Spain. The latter is a southern route into the upper Arrens valley and Spain by the col de la Peyre-Saint-Martin (2000 m). As the watchpoint lies in the Central Pyrenean high mountains, it is ideally positioned to survey the important migratory flow across this impressive natural barrier. Birds migrate at high altitudes (over 3000 m) further east near col du Tourmalet and do not necessarily seek lower areas to cross.
Ornithological interest, emblematic species
The watchpoint is interesting for storks and raptors. Common migrants include both kites (maximum 24569 Black Kites and 1211 Red Kites), Honey Buzzards (max. 2808), Short-toed Eagles (80 to 90 inds.) and Black Storks (close to 100 inds.). There is also some Sparrowhawk migration (up to 188) as well as good numbers of Booted Eagle (up to 41) and White Stork (up to 74 inds.). Most passerines and smaller birds seen at other sites can also be watched at Soulor with a migration peak in October, e.g. several thousands of Swifts, a few Skylarks, Woodlarks, Barn Swallows, House Martins (at least a thousand), Meadow Pipits ( a few hundred) or Chaffinches (a few hundred). Alpine Swifts, Ortolan Buntings, Melodious Warblers, Nightingales, Dartford Warblers, Common Whitethroats, Pied Flycatchers, Hoopoes and Turtle Doves all occur in small numbers starting from mid-July. Rarities include Dotterel, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Black-winged Kite, Eleonora’s Falcon, Arctic Skua and … Gannet! Col du Soulor is an excellent spot to see large raptors, such as Lammergeyer, Griffon Vulture, Egyptian Vulture and Royal Eagle. Local breeding birds include the Pyrenean Grey Partridge (Perdix p. hispaniensis), Rufous-tailed Rock-thrush, Red-billed Chough, Alpine Chough and Crossbill among the numerous Wheatears and Water Pipits. The tiny lac de Soum (1500 m) holds several breeding pairs of Moorhen, Little grebe and Water Rail. Ptarmigan, Snowfinch, Alpine Accentor and Wallcreeper occur near the higher Gabizos.
Migration calendar
Several times a year, the mountain pass, near the upper limit of a forest belt at the junction of three valleys, is shrouded in dense fog with visibility close to nil. This is the major drawback of the watchpoint. On the other hand, the area is sheltered from strong winds - even in October - by its central position in the Pyrenean chain. There is an important temperature variation between mid July and the end of October. Don’t be surprised by snow in early August, cold weather in mid August (10°C) or hot weather in September (30°C). Mountain weather is quite unpredictable. A glimpse of blue sky during a clouded day may yield surprises, e.g. 114 Black Storks at the end of September, during a short spell of fine weather.
Visitors
There is no permanency at the watchpoint. The migration survey relies on volunteers.
Access
From the Ossau valley : take the D 918 at Laruns towards col d’Aubisque and next to col du Soulor. From Lourdes : take the valley of Argelès, follow Arrens by the D 104 and col du Soulor by the D 918. From Nay : take the Ouzoum valley via Asson, Arthez-d’Asson (D 126), Ferrières and Arbéost to reach the col. Once at the mountain pass, try to find an open view over the three valleys. Birds mainly migrate from east to west.
Where to stay and where to eat?
Accomodation (camp sites, hotels) is available at Arrens, at the foot of the col, and at Argelès-Gazost, some 20 km from the site. There are restaurants at the col.
Contact
Groupe Ornithologique des Pyrénées et de l’Adour (GOPA), MJC du Laü, 81 avenue du Loup, 64000 Pau. GOPA is interested in any observations at the site. The association can be reached by mail : gopa_sudouest@yahoo.fr and has a web site : gopa64.free.fr
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